Installation

Mounting Procedures

1. Select a suitable location for the speakers. They are not meant to be mounted with direct salt-water exposure on the back-side. Be certain there are no braces, frames, glass or other obstructions behind the panel that would interfere with the insertion of the speaker. We recommend mounting the speaker from the top as this gives the best possible sound. Wall thickness of the larger speakers (N69, N7, N9.5) can be ¾” with no deterioration of sound quality. When mounting the N4 or N5 speakers and the mounting wall thickness is greater than ¼” you may have to chamfer the opening inside the cabinet to allow proper exiting of the air from the speaker frame (basket). If top mounting in not possible, the speaker may be mounted from behind using a gasket. For the best sound quality rear mounting should only be done if panel is no thicker than .25” (6mm) as this will make the speaker sound “closed in” and project poorly. Because of the tremendous bass power of the DC GOLD AUDIO speakers, the mounting panel should be as sturdy as possible. To realize the full potential, the speakers need a reasonable volume of air behind them. Thin or flimsy wall and / or lack of air volume will detract the sound quality. Depths of the speakers range from 2.25” (57mm) to 4.7 (120mm) please measure carefully.
2. Cut hole with template provided using a knife, saw or sheet metal shears. Clean the installation area thoroughly, specially loose fiberglass bits and or metal shavings. Sand or file edges before the next step.
3. Fit the speaker into the opening and mark the location of the mounting holes. Remove the speaker and drill the pilot holes as marked. Key to the great sound of DC GOLD AUDIO speakers is the elimination of the spider found in conventional speakers. To avoid possible contamination of the exposed motor, remove all debris carefully before fitting the speaker into the opening.

Wiring Procedure

1. Route the speaker leads through the vehicle. Avoid running wires where they may be pinched.
2. Connect leads to the speaker terminals and mount the speaker in place using the stainless steel screws supplied. The terminal with the red dot is the positive (+) lead. This can be checked with a battery the positive (+) lead of the battery connected to the positive lead of the speaker and the negative (-) connected to the negative lead of the speaker should cause the cone to move forward. If the speaker moves inward, switch polarity of the speaker terminals. Rosin core solder will give the best connection. It is best to carefully start each screw, but do not tighten until all are in place-then tighten snugly-do not over tighten as you can crack the polymer frame.
3. Follow the instruction supplied with your stereo or amplifier for proper electrical connections. Note that one of the wires is marked for proper identification, to assure proper phasing of the speakers. Improper phasing will greatly reduce low frequency response. To check, turn balance to one speaker and then to the other while playing. If bass response is greater on either one speaker than both playing together, one speaker is connected out of phase. A similar check can be performed on a four-speaker system using the fader to check phasing between the front and rear speakers.

Amplifier & Wiring Suggestions

Amplifiers should have a minimum of 25 watts RMS per channel for best performance. Distortion from a cheap or
underpowered amplifier will do more damage than a high-powered amplifier used judiciously.

For wiring runs of 3 feet to 10 feet we recommend 16 gauge wire at a minimum, for runs of 10 feet to 20 feet a
minimum of 14 gauge wire and for runs beyond 20 feet a minimum of 12 gauge should be used. Larger gauge wire
is always better up to a point.